COZUMEL Island Part 3: CENTRAL

Continued from COZUMEL Island Part 2: SOUTH End

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HOTEL COZUMEL

1 hour fast boat to the southern reef dive sites, short walk to San Miguel

The Maya Culture Of Isla de la Cozumel : Some History

Museo de la Isla de Cozumel y Ruinas Mayas el Cedral

I Love History ...............

Click on backlinks for more information.

Click on any photo to launch a slideshow of all photos in the post.

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Note: Much of the historical text and some photos for this post provided by other sources.

The Cozumel Museum (Museo de la Isla de Cozumel) sits on the waterfront in downtown San Miguel de Cozumel. Inside the historical building are a wealth of displays, all well signed in both Spanish and English. Its four permanent exhibit rooms offer an overview of the island’s geography, ecosystems, history, and culture.

Small Maya settlements typically had homes with thatched roofs. The aim of these small ecosystems closely tied to the natural world, was to employ less and use materials from the surroundings. The Maya home was actually a piece of land, a broad open space with small areas for specific purposes, such as the house, the kitchen, the well for drawing freshwater, the washing area, the hen-house and the ka’anche, or small raised garden. 

The House

The Kitchen

Raised Garden (right)

The ancient Maya civilization of Central America left behind an intricate and mysterious hieroglyphic script, carved on monuments, painted on pottery, and drawn in handmade bark-paper books (photos below). For centuries, scholars considered it too complex ever to understand—until recently, when an ingenious series of breakthroughs finally cracked the code and unleashed a torrent of new insights into the Mayas' turbulent past.

The building (above and below left) existed on a spot called Mirimar. It was demolished by the US Military to build an airport on the island. It was a temple and fortunately the column representing a female deity (below right) was recovered. 

 

El Cedral is the oldest Mayan Ruins on Cozumel Island, dating back to 800 A.D. This Mayan village was once the capital of Cozumel, and the largest community on the island. It was discovered by Spanish Conquistadors in 1518, who tore down much of the Mayan temple, and then during World War II, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers destroyed more of it to make way for the island's first airport. Today, there is not much of this once significant Mayan temple remaining.

This Maya ruin, a fertility temple, is the oldest on the island. It’s the size of a small house and has no ornamentation. El Cedral is thought to have been an important ceremonial site.

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Somewhere in NL CANADA

We're KANOE Tripping 

... follow along, if you like.

Our latest route is included on TRAVELMAP 2020.   

For all posts from this latest adventure click Trip 150. 

All photography is by LOAFin Around, unless otherwise noted. 

And finally, here's a link to our complete Trip 150 Cozumel MEXICO photo gallery. 

Wry and Crusty ... 

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C A R N I V A L

C  A  R  N  I  V  A  L

Mexicans know how to have fun!

We booked into Hotel Cozumel and Resort the day Carnival festivities began. In the weeks before the main events there is also an exciting program of "pre-Carnival" warm-up events, including the presentation and election of Carnival Kings and Queens, with dancing, performances, and live music from top singers and groups. The main entertainment stretches from February 22-25 this year and culminates with Mardi-Gras on Fat Tuesday (25th).

COZUMEL Island Part 2: SOUTH End

Continued from COZUMEL Island Part 1: NORTH End

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IBEROSTAR COZUMEL

Close to the southern reef dive sites, about 20 kms to San Miguel

Stock photo

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COZUMEL Island Part 1: NORTH End

In addition to our annual CANUSUKair get-together at Hotel Cozumel & Resort, we'll be embarking on an exploratory this winter. 

We hope to locate an affordable casa or condominium for a winter stay of 2 to 3 months.

This is our 7th trip to the island. Our good friends Heather and Randy initially recommended the island for the superb diving and snorkelling available on the nearby Meso-american Reef. We have come to enjoy the friendliness and sincerity of the locals, we've made some new Mexican friends, there is wonderful authentic, (UNESCO recognized) Mexican Cuisine available along some of the back streets and if you venture away from the western coast you can still find quiet beaches on the eastern side of the island. 

This post  (and 2 others to follow) are reviews of our impressions at different locations on Cozumel., that we have not spent any significant time at. 

We are more concerned with  available activities at a location than we are with types of accommodation ... casas or condos, doesn't matter - as long as they are affordable. 

We have a goal of finding an affordable, long-term stay rental on the island for a number of years. Unfortunately we left it too late this winter to arrange for accommodations in a local casa. Instead we've arranged to stay at 2 different hotels at the north and south parts of the east coast. And we'll spend our time in the central part at our regular spot; Hotel Cozumel. We've rented a car for some of our stay and will be gone for slightly more than 8 weeks. We hope the island has enough to keep us interested but if not we intend on venturing over to the mainland where we can complete some day or long weekend adventures.  

Click on the backlinks for more information.

TRAVEL SNAPSHOT: 109 Days in 2019

We began the year with a Bucket List trip to the Galapagos Islands and included an additional 4.5 weeks to explore several parts of mainland ECUADOR. We returned home for a couple of weeks and then flew to Cozumel Island MEXICO for our annual CANUSUKair SCUBA and snorkeling trip. The spring CTCO Rally took us to Merrickville for a couple of nights in early June; next up, a 1 week canoe trip in Temagami ON late July to early August. Then, LOAFin Around for 6 weeks in CANADA's Maritime Provinces from mid-August to the end of September. We had initially planned for a bit longer on the east coast, but a family get-together in Ontario, early October could not be missed. We had also intended on spending time in Quebec's Gaspe Peninsula, but Hurricane Dorian changed those plans. We finished our TC season with a second CTCO Rally in Quinte Isle, Ontario late September.

What's Next? ... We've scheduled an 8 week stay on MEXICO's Cozumel Island for part of winter 2020?? 

The map below is interactive. To view our route in detail you will need to begin by clicking on [  ] (top right corner) for full screen. Use the hand to pan and +/- to zoom and reduce, as needed. 

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La Mauricie National Park ... ' Outrunning Dorian '

Hurricane Dorian sent us scurrying westerly, from Kouchibouguac NP, where we were located (in the red) on the east coast of New Brunswick. Due to our position at the time, the storms' predicted path, gave us one day to escape the ominous forecast of ... 'heaviest rain and highest winds'. We're not risk-takers, we did the drive. We were well out of Dorian's path once we reached Edmunston NB. From there, we headed south-west at Riviere-du-Loup, followed Quebec's hwy 132 until Trois-Rivieres and then crossed over the St. Lawrence River.

Featuring: Cape Breton Highlands National Park & Meat Cove

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We were first on Cape Breton Island in 1996 (23 years ago) with Helen's parents. At that time, we were only here long enough for a quick drive around the Cabot Trail; we were on our way to Newfoundland. This was yet another beautiful region of Canada that they introduced us to ... thanks again, Mae and Earl.

Visiting National Historic and UNESCO Sites

Well, we're history buffs ... what can I say. 

We visit Canadian National Historic and UNESCO sites whenever we get an opportunity ... here's our most recent SIX stops. 

' If history doesn't interest you, do yourself a favour ... and stop reading now. 

Or, if it does ... click on the links for more information. '

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A Cautionary Tale: "A Lesson Learned On The Roads to Tuk"

We take responsibility for the unexpected repairs that occurred ...

A couple of photos of what LOAF looked like after our return drive on the Dempster and Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk highways in 2018. Your rig will take a beating ... washboard gravel roads will pound all suspension components; from tires through to the shock absorbers. Flying gravel from passing tractor trailers and other vehicles will pummel windshields, headlights and body panels.

Just outside Tuk ... heading south

CANOEING & KAYAKING: Temagami and Cross Lakes

" Paddling Irons the Wrinkles Out of the Soul. "  

                                                                                                         Anonymous

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Temagami: A Brief History

(Source: Wikipedia)

The Anishnabai have been living in the area for at least 6,000 years after migrating from the east coast of North America. The land was divided into familial hunting and trapping territories.

Since the main east-west fur trade route bypassed Temagami to the south, settlement of this area by Europeans did not come until 1834. That year the Hudson's Bay Company built a store on Temagami Island, which later relocated to Bear Island. The town itself was founded by Dan O'Connor, who in 1903 formed the O'Connor Steamboat and Hotel Company on the lake and established its first store on the future townsite. By 1906, he had built three hotels on Lake Temagami: Hotel Ronnoco, Temagami Inn, and Lady Evelyn Hotel and by 1910 the company operated ten steamships on the lake including the Belle of Temagami.

The Forest Reserves Act of 1898 established the 15,000 km2 (5,800 sq mi) Temagami Forest Reserve. Because of this reserve, the region was home to the 'last Old-growth forests in Ontario'. Logging of the vast pine stands only began in the 1920s. Now just a few patches of old growth remain, including the White Bear Forest and 'the world's largest stand of old-growth red and white pine forest' - the Obabika Old-Growth Forest. 

The inspiration and wonder of the area were brought to millions around the world in 1907 when Grey Owl arrived in Temagami. He was employed by Keewaydin Canoe Camp as a guide, and later by the Ontario Department of Lands and Forests as a ranger. His subsequent books and extensive lecturing in Britain and the United States brought tremendous attention to northeastern Ontario and wildlife conservation. 

Impressions of ECUADOR

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'  The highlight of our travel here, has been the Ecuadorian people 
... sincere, proud, kind, generous, caring, friendly, helpful.  '

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Our main reason for travelling to Ecuador, had been to sail the Galapagos Islands ... it's always been a 'bucket list' trip for us. Fortunately, we were also able to include an additional 4.5 weeks into our schedule to 'get just a small taste' of Ecuador's mainland culture in a few select, geographic and demographic regions. 

We stayed in Quito, the countries historic and cultural capital; moved to the cloud forest at Maquipucuna for some hiking and birding, then onto Banos and Cuenca, both smaller cities that are building on their ecotourism potential with available access to the adjacent Amazon jungle and also ... the Pacific Coast beach towns of Olon and Puerto Lopez; a small village and a medium sized city, both with well established commercial fishing fleets that are now beginning to offer sport fishing charters.

This post features some of the wonderful folks we met on this adventure.

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' Journeymakers  are those people who elevate your travel experience with the passion and enthusiasm for the place they call home and for the interest and kindness they give you, the traveller. '
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Staying At ... Casa Hotel Las Plazas, QUITO 

Mario and Lucia

All staff were exceptional; unfortunately we didn't learn everyones name or get to take their photos.

Mario is a professional musician who once played pan flute in a group that travelled internationally. He made a copy of some of his groups music for us ... Muchas gracias Mario! He retired home to Ecuador after has first child was born. 

Lucia 'owned' the kitchen; our breakfasts were always well-prepared, too bountiful and beautifully presented, often with explanations of the different foods we were eating. She would bring us hielo (ice) for our wine. She would caution us about where we might be heading on our daily walks ... ' wear your packs on the front ' and 'don't stay out too late'. 

Luis, who manned the front desk, learned of our interest in ethnic music and made us a sample copy of Ecuador's 'pasillo' music ... a wonderful addition to our music library.  

We had an early departure on our last day and awoke to sounds of Lucia and Mario in the kitchen (an hour early), ensuring we had another wonderful Ecuadorian breakfast before leaving  ... they sent us on our way with mucho hugs. 

Puerto Lopez

The 43 km, coastal drive from Olon to Puerto Lopez was through one small fishing village after another with a few lodge styled resorts scattered between.

Olon

' We Survived a 5.9 Earthquake ... The Good News ? ... A Tsunami Is Not Predicted!'

We'll spend our final two weeks in Ecuador, equally divided between the Pacific Coast beach towns 
... of Olon and Puerto Lopez. 

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OLON

Most townsfolk here, speak limited English, but are friendly and helpful.

The village appeals to the young surfing crowd and is quickly becoming a popular international destination, for that reason. The flat, dark sand, 3 km beach here is also good for walking. 

Quito to Banos (plus Puyo and Rio Verde) to Cuenca to Olon

We'll base ourselves out of Banos for a few days and do some 'touristy' stuff. 

From Banos (south and then westerly) it's mostly just a scenic drive, with a private driver / guide. 

We'll cross over the Andes Mountains and end this drive at the beach town of  Olon ... we will explore here for a week.  Our last move will be, further north along the coast to Puerto Lopez and our final week in Ecuador.

We were very satisfied with the professional driving service provided by Fredy, (owner of Servi Taxi Banos). 

Many tourist drivers like Fredy,  stop at the frequent San Cristobal shrines to donate a small sum and ask for safe travel.

It's much less expensive to make this drive by bus ... however, that travel mode has multiple stops to pick up passengers, the commercial bus drivers really don't want to stop for viewpoints or photographs and don't share the amount of cultural and historical information that our driver Fredy did. 

This is a 910 km drive over some of the highest passes in the Ecuadorian Andes;  it's a twisty road with many hairpin curves, mud-slides, wash-outs and on-going road repair.

Galapagos Islands: The Wildlife

Charles Robert Darwin was an English naturalist, geologist and biologist, best known for his contributions to the science of evolution. His proposition that all species of life have descended over time from common ancestors is now widely accepted, and considered a foundational concept in science. In a joint publication with Alfred Russel Wallace, he introduced his scientific theory that this branching pattern of evolution resulted from a process that he called natural selection, in which the struggle for existence has a similar effect to the artificial selection involved in selective breeding. (Source: Wikipedia) 

The data compiled from time spent in the Galapagos Islands were critical to his analysis and research.

Galapagos Islands: Sailing and Hiking

' For Us ... A Bucket List Trip '

Located over 1000 km from the South American continent, the Galapagos Islands (officially named the Archipelago of Colon) are a dynamic region constantly changing with volcanic eruptions, new lava fields forming and islands eroding and expanding.

Maquipucuna

The taxi shuttle from Quito to the Maquipucuna Cloud Forest Reserve & Ecolodge is a little more than 2 hours, but as the crow flies it's only a 35 km distance. Very slow traffic at times to escape the central part of the city, followed by several long, slow ascents and finally multiple drives and switchbacks around the base of mountains and through a couple of small villages. All the while our driver dealt with passenger buses, slow-moving trucks hauling an assortment of aggregates and aggressive drivers passing on blind, steep curves ... but visibility was mostly clear and it was all very exciting! 

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Maquipucuna is a 6,000 hectare (14,820 acre) cloud forest reserve in Ecuador. Located in the Pichincha Province, it is the closest pristine rainforest to Quito, Ecuador's capital. The reserve consists of primary and secondary montane rain forest and cloud forest.

Quito

We moved into a 'mostly' finished new home in late March of this year. We only had enough time to unpack some boxes, settle in somewhat and then prepare for a 3 month road trip that would take us as far north as Tuktoyaktuk on Canada's Arctic coast. When we returned in late September, much of the home's unfinished exterior work, (that was the developer's responsibility), had been completed. We spent most of the following 3 months finishing some landscaping and decking, in addition to minor improvements and detailing of the home's interior. 

So now, we're eager for a new adventure!  

Let's begin this one at ... 

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' The Second Highest Capital City in the World '

Neighbours shuttled us 30 kilometres to our nearest bus station. From there, we travelled to Toronto, spent the night and the next morning boarded a flight to Panama City, PANAMA then to Quito, ECUADOR.

The aircraft approach, (close to an hour of descent) through the Andes Mountains and the landing at Aeropuerto Internacional de Quito is quite spectacular. We were fortunate to fly on a day with quite clear visibility. If you look closely you can see a portion of the landing strip in the upper left section of the photo. (The following 3 stock photos are much better than any I took from the plane's window)

BACKYARD 10.19.18 ... "Cooking In 'The County' - Part 3"

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Part 7 in the Series, Exploring Our Backyard

... a Five Course Tasting Workshop ...

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Last spring I was very fortunate to attend a 'Pasta 101' Class  with  Angelo Bean, Artisan sausage maker and Italian Cooking Studio.   I enjoyed the class and time with Angelo so much that I knew I would return. I convinced Crusty it would be a good idea to attend Angelo's Five Course Tasking Workshop.  We would do a bit of cooking, some wine tasting and lots of eating!  Do yourself a 'flavour favour' and attend this workshop ... wear 'stretchy' pants and cancel any dinner reservations!

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