La Mauricie National Park ... ' Outrunning Dorian '

Hurricane Dorian sent us scurrying westerly, from Kouchibouguac NP, where we were located (in the red) on the east coast of New Brunswick. Due to our position at the time, the storms' predicted path, gave us one day to escape the ominous forecast of ... 'heaviest rain and highest winds'. We're not risk-takers, we did the drive. We were well out of Dorian's path once we reached Edmunston NB. From there, we headed south-west at Riviere-du-Loup, followed Quebec's hwy 132 until Trois-Rivieres and then crossed over the St. Lawrence River.

We sort of ended up here ... it wasn't planned!

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LA MAURICIE NATIONAL PARK

Stock photo

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HISTORY

The earliest human remains in the park date from the Archaic period in North America, between 7000 and 3000 BC. The Native Americans who frequented the park lived in small family groups. They mainly occupied the valley of lakes Antigamac and Wapizagonke and fished, hunted and gathered. Until the 17th century, the Attikamekw and Algonquian peoples respectively occupied the northern and southern basins of the Saint-Mauricie River, making a living mainly by trap and hunting. The Abenaki used the park area in the middle of the 19th century for hunting and trade.

At the beginning of the 19th century logging began. It began by cutting white and red pines for lumber. This lasted until 1925, when trees of good diameter became scarce. The forest industry then turned instead to wood for paper, which made the Mauricie one of the largest paper producers newspaper for the first half of the 20th century. 

At the end of the 19th century, rich American tourists settled in the area and opened private hunting and fishing clubs. Thirteen other less prestigious clubs settled on the territory of the park between 1940 and the creation of the park in 1970. Membership in the clubs was selective and members enjoyed the right to hunt and fish in the territory. Although they allowed a certain amount of nature protection in the territory of the park, these clubs introduced many exotic fish species into the lakes. The lodges were acquired by Parks Canada in 1972 and were converted into dormitories and rooms for visitors.

The park was created on August 21, 1970 after a federal-provincial agreement. This creation stopped the activities of the 16 private clubs in its territory. (Sources: Parks Canada, Wikipedia)

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The TRAILS

We came here to hike. 

We encountered a couple of setbacks in our plans at the onset ... three trails were closed indefinitely due to on-going bear activity in the Riviere-A-La-Peche area. Also, the parkway that traverses the park was closed to traffic and under construction between the Esker and the Wapizagonke Picnic Area. This is the roadway (marked in red, map below), that runs north/south along the park's western boundary. It was therefore, not possible to cross the park from one main entrance to the other. Additional trails at that west entrance through Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc were only accessible by exiting the park at the east entrance and then re-entering at the west; which is what we did ... more hiking to do before we leave.

All the trails we walked were well-maintained; we seldom saw litter (only a few tp flowers), wooden structures (bridges and steps) were in good repair, downed trees had been removed. However, we found that some directional signage was missing at trail intersections where multiple trails crossed. Trail maps and trailhead information map boards did not agree with each other in a couple of instances; distances given sometimes disagreed or were misleading.

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MEKINAC

Moderate, 4 h, 11 km, 601 m elevation gain

Notes

This loop trail does have some fairly steep sections, some of which utilize wooden steps. There are also rocky and rooty steep ups and downs. Views include several lookouts east to a tributary of the Sainte-Maurice River, mountain streams, mixed forest, some wetland. We walked the trail in about 3.5 hours, not including a 0.5 lunch break. The day we hiked, the trail was quite wet and muddy in places; due to the steep, rocky grades in places; a hiking pole is recommended, particularly for anyone with knee or hip joint discomfort ... I used mine on all the 'downs'.

Along the Trail

The first 100 metres ...

Views of Riviere Saint-Maurice

Early morning, natural light, no editing ... fascinating how light shot through the trees and focused itself just here!

A few kilometres into the trail, there is a fairly major down, a floating crossing, then an equally, major up.

Pileated Woodpecker

We started all our hikes early and encountered very few hikers because of that

Find the hiker ...

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LA TERRASSE
Easy, 1.5 h, 3.8 km, 144 m elevation gain

Notes

This complete loop trail is gravel covered, smooth and mostly flat, very easy walking. The forest is mixed, features a few wetland areas and some rock escarpment views during the return section of the loop. The forest was quiet ... I'm often surprised at how much so. With the exception of infrequent bird calls in the distance, possibly chickadees; we walked with silence. The largest animals encountered ... an american toad, chipmunks and red squirrels.

Along the Trail

American Black Duck

Some of the Balsam Poplar are quite large.

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LA CACHE

Easy, 1 h, 3 km, 215 m elevation gain

Notes

The trail is almost all sandy-loam covered with a few sections of minor protruding rock. Many blow-downs, several streams cross or run alongside the trail, wetlands. A good warm-up hike.

Along the Trail

Short loop at the end and return along this same path.

View of Lac du Fou to the north

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LES CASCADES

Easy, 1 h, 2 km, 77 m elevation gain
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LES FALSISES

Moderate+, 2 h, 3.8 km, 230 m elevation gain

Notes

We hiked these two trails together. A connecting, spur-line, approximately 300 m long (walked both ways) joined the two loops. We walked the trail counterclockwise; the spur-line in that direction is a continuous 300 metre 'up', a combination of rooty/rocky trail and  a staircase that includes, 197 steps plus a dozen or so landings. We walked the two trails in 2h 17m, plenty of photo stops and slow on the 'ups', so the estimate of 3h to complete would certainly be a maximum time required.

This was certainly the nicest hike we made in Saint-Mauricie NP. These two trails combined include a variety of features throughout their extent ... waterfalls, wetlands, streams, lake views, mixed forest, up high and down low. Like all trails, in the park, they are well maintained; litter-free, (most) downed trees removed from paths, wooden structures in good condition (rotted lumber replaced).

Along the Trails

A short walk from the parking lot, to a bridge that crosses Lake Wapizagonke and then another short walk to the trailhead.

Lake Wapizagonke

The first kilometre of this trail is paved! Apparently for wheel-chair access, but the grade would be difficult for anyone 'pushing or pulling' and the pavement has frost-heaved violently in places ... go figure.

Not now, but I imagine quite spectacular during Spring runoff.

Just looks like a big boulder, but actually this 5 foot tall rock is a glacial erratic.

This is the branch / spur line that connects the two loop trails. Approximately 300 metres (one way), including 197 steps in two sections and a dozen landings

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LA TORBIERE

Easy, 15 - 30 m, 300 - 500 m 

Notes

Don't skip this short, little trail ... spend time here. A great little bog; good information boards, scary plants.

Along the Trails

Purple Pitcher Plant

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We're LOAFin Around 

... follow along, if you like.

Our latest route is included on TRAVELMAP 2019.   

For all posts from this latest adventure

click Trip 149 

For all photos from this latest adventure click here.

Photography is by LOAFin Around, unless otherwise noted. 

TEAM: LOAF, Crumby,Wry and Crusty ... 

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