Direction Easterly ... Evading Wildfires

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The PLAN

We would ... drive west from home and ferry to Haida Gwaii and spend a couple of weeks; to camp, bike and hike, possibly do some kayak day excursions. Return by ferry to the BC mainland and then drive northerly along the Cassier Highway to Yukon. Drive a few roads we haden't yet in the territory and then begin our return home drive by the De-Cho Trail in NWT, then south along the Mackenzie highway and roads east from there.

Unfortunately ... extensive wildfires were active along much of our planned route; so that didn't happen. 

What we didn't expect ... is we encountered wildfires AND extreme heat (42C with the humidex) anyway. 

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Our JOURNAL 

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Aug 04 - 05 ... 'Departure Day and Finally, a Cook Fire'

Travel: Wellington ONTARIO > lunch with Cathy & Jack @ The Boathouse Country Inn in Rockport > Farran Park Campground Ingelside ON

Weather: Very warm and humid, high 20's to low 30's C. 

There is a partial fire ban in place and some restrictions have been placed on burning but sufficient time periods are still available to allow us to prepare meals; the majority of our cooking is usually over a campfire.

Baked & Charred Quesadillas ... mushroom, shallot, Maple Dale cheddar

Day 2: Temperature in the camper was 24C at bedtime; we opened all windows and left the Fantastic Fan on medium - morning temp was 19 C. Strong offshore wind 2nd day here, very quiet, most campers have packed up and moved on. We hung out and completed some minor repairs and improvements to some of our storage areas and we rebuilt yet another campfire pit. 

* Dry Camp: Site 221, this is a lovely, quiet, site (no services); we will try and book it on our return trip home. A large site, nice water view, good solar gain with shade from mature willows if needed, quite private, a neighbour to one side only, easy water access for canoe/kayak/sup launch from the site, a firepit (I cleaned & rebuilt for cooking and better airflow) and a picnic table. Site 220 would also be a good site for all the same reasons.

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Aug 06 - 07 ... 'Bypassing Montreal'

Travel: Ingelside ON > Best Western Hotel, Drummondville QUEBEC

An early morning drive to get us around Montreal. Much less traffic than usual, some slow-downs but good for the most part; we arrived in Drummondville much sooner than expected. There isn't much camping in this part of Quebec that suits us, so we often just take a hotel room for the night.

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Aug 08 - 09 ... 'An Exceptional Campsite & Homemade Ice Cream'

Travel: Drummondville QC > Camping Le Rayon de Soleil QC > River Country Campground, Clearview NEW BRUNSWICK

A couple of driving days. Second night at River Country Campground located on the Saint John River. It's situated between Perth-Andover and Florenceville-Bristol in New Brunswick. The campground offers a variety of amenities and activities. 

* Dry Camps: Sites 11 & 42. Site 11, in particular is exceptional. Out on a point overlooking the Saint John River; no services once again, a chain link fence obstructs the view somewhat but (for us), not a deal-breaker. Large, flat, dead end site, near beach area but separated form the main campsites by a couple of hundred feet.

Pleasant paddling area, very clean campground, owner makes homemade ice-cream; some flavours with local ingredients ... mmmmm! bluets🫐and fraises🍓. 

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Aug 10 ... 'Slot Machines'

Travel: Clearview NB > Casino New Brunswick, Moncton

Trans-Canada most of the way, paralleled the Saint John River, some minor re-paving sections, minimal traffic, long hills, big views. NB (similar to NS) has shut down all forest activities throughout the province, due to the extreme wildfire conditions; we have re-evaluated our trip plan. We are going to head towards Quebec now instead of Nova Scotia - Quebec is still allowing wood fires and hiking.

Dry Camp: Casino parking lot, quiet, security, very hot (34C outside @ 7:20pm), Helen up $57 

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Aug 11 - 13 ... 'hot - Hot - HOT - HOT'

Travel: Moncton > Kouchibouguac National Park Kouchibouguac NB

Some rough secondary highways today, followed the Acadian Coastal Drive much of the way. Temps in the shade were 35 - 37C (95 - 98F) at 3:30pm, blistering hot. 

Serviced Sites #208 & 281: I'm ashamed to say; we got serviced sites (our first this trip) just to be able to use our A/C - in all our TC travels (since 1988), this may be only the second time (we recall a time in Utah) we have ever felt the need. We will need to move tomorrow to a different site. 

There are a couple of hiking trails open; will try for a walk tomorrow if the heat lessens.

281: The hardwoods in the area are looking stressed, 42C with the humidex @ 11:15 am, not many people moving around, no hiking for us.

Storm threatened early evening that only amounted to some rain sprinkles, wind gusts, rumbling and beautiful cloud formations.

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Aug 14 ... 'A C A D I A'

Travel: Kouchibouguac > Quality Hotel & Conference Centre, Campbellton NB. 

Black bear🐻crossed the highway on our way out of the park.

We continued along the Acadian Coastal Drive for much of the day. Our longest driving day so far; just under 400 kms. Encountered a major detour around Mirimachi due to on-going wildfires in that area; strong smoke smell in the air at times.

The heat and humidity have dropped noticeably; overcast, gusty wind, high 20C.
Pokeshaw

The name "Pokeshaw" is reportedly of indigenous origin, with meanings claimed including "narrows" and "meeting place".

Pokeshaw Rock

Hotel room for the night, looking forward to some grooming and hygienic chores. There's a nice restaurant here ... ask for the 'cold salmon appetizer'; capers, cream cheese, pickled onion, cold smoked salmon, croutons, cream cheese, tiny salad.

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Aug 15 - 19 ... 'Our Nicest Campsite'

Travel: Campbellton NB > Taylor's Point Campground, Parc de la Pointe Taylor, Baie des Chaleurs, New Richmond QUEBEC

Municipal park, Parc de la Pointe Taylor; offers a variety of activities including hiking, cycling, picnicking, and water sports rentals. The park also features a public market on Saturdays in the summer, a campground, and is known for its scenic views of the Baie des Chaleurs and the Petite rivière Cascapédia. 

* * Dry Camp: Site Van11 could almost qualify as a boondocking campsite. This is in an isolated part of the main campground, separated by a forested area on one side and partially hidden by a short berm that separates it from Baie des Chaleurs. There are 12 sites here and they are only accessible through a narrow gateway and short gravel road drive that will only accept narrow vehicles such as vans and truck campers. Sites 1 & 11 are closest to the water and located at opposite ends. Site 1 is more shaded whereas site 11 is full exposure.

LOAF's view from the camper window; that's Baie des Chaleur just below the horizon.

ANNOUNCEMENT: Helen found what just may be one of the BEST car camping campgrounds we've been to anywhere, in southern Canada; and bonus; we're here for 5 nights.

If that wasn't enough of a treat, she then prepped and prepared a fabulous anniversary lunch for our 51st; I cooked (under supervision of course😁).

Beef sirloin and tuna steaks, a mushroom and onion mix w. olive oil and spices and a tomatoe, shallot, calamata olives, fresh parmesan, balsamic vinegar and olive oil mix.

I rebuilt this firepit as a cooking pit, to use wood more efficiently ... dug it down somewhat and dumped the excavated, cooled ash and dirt; adding nitrogen and other nutrients into a nearby wetland, re-assembled the stones to guard against the prevailing ocean winds and, of course ... added a couple of 'fancy centrepiece show rocks' ... just 'cause I could!

 

Tomorrow's weather prediction ... photo of our sky, as seen at camp around noon today.

Horsetail clouds, also known as cirrus uncinus or mare's tails, are often associated with an approaching weather change, typically indicating the approach of a warm front and potentially strong winds aloft. These wispy, feathery clouds, composed of ice crystals, are usually a sign that a storm system or a change in wind patterns is on its way. Update: Rain started around 8am next day.

Active wildfire yesterday evening on the NB side near Belledune. Photo taken from our campsite at Baie des Chaleurs, New Richmond QC; approximately 30kms distant ... camera Nikon DSLR P1000.

Good Night!

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Next Day ...

For anyone who prefers flat, easy terrain (I now do) there are many kilometres to be walked in either direction along the beach here; good beachcombing for rocks, varieties of sea birds and murmurations of, bonus 'ness' aromas: salti - brackish - fishi

Petite rivière Cascapédia as it flows into New Richmond on the right.

An artists' description: 

"The construction, a schematic structure, encloses and contains the trees, thus paradoxically placing them in the forefront. It will progreesively become filled and eventually literally submerged and invaded. Upon maturity, befor enature totally takes over, the three sections in a certain manner will become joined and suggest a single autopsied body. The head ... the trunk ... the roots. A shaft projecting from the sun ... the roots plunging into the earth  ... a body exists here now."

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Aug 20 - 21 ... 'A BIG Rock & Our 51st'

Travel: New Richmond > Camping du Village, Perce QUEBEC

Serviced Site: Site 11, overlooks the village with very good views of Perce Roche. This is a clean, quiet campground, in town. Good laundry and bathhouse, full hookup, small site, some shade, fires not always available, good internet.

SECURITY: Two resident tom cats patrol the camp and periodically have territorial disputes.😮😬

Late afternoon ...

Early morning ...

ANNIVERSARY ... 51 years married, 53 together in 2 more months.

Waterfront boardwalk.

That ...  'house you see, on that hill'.

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Aug 22 - 25 ... 'Folk Art & A Ferme'

Travel: Perce > Camping Rivière La Martre, La Martre > Camping Imperial, Sainte-Flavie >  Ferme GIJAMIKA, Kamouraska > Best Western Hotel, Drummondville QUEBEC

Dry Camp (La Martre): Site 30, next to a small creek and adjacent to the Saint Lawrence River. Clean, only a few sites, friendly owners, near hwy but not noisy. Site 30 is the only one that would suit our camping style.

Serviced Site (Sainte-Flavie): Site 19, full service, in town, RV's are crowded in, for us this would only be an overnight spot

Terego Camp (Kamouraska): Site 5, met granny, grandpa, mom and grandson Jamie. This is a dry camp in a grassy field above a small creek, beside a forest and a couple of hundred metres from the farm, picnic table, only 5 sites. 

Perce > La Martre

Photo taken with an iPhone 16 pro-max, looking south.

We were heading west on hwy132 at the time between the villages of Barachois and Saint-Georges-de-Malbaie. The distance to Perce Roche would have been around 13 kms. That's the village of Perce on the right mainland and Bonavista Island to the left of Perce Roche.

Lunch stop, hwy198; just outside Murdochville

La Martre > Sainte-Flavie

A stop at Centre D'Art Marcel Gagnon is certainly worthwhile. An art gallery, hostel-like accommodations, some local crafts and artisan works, restaurant (we had seafood soup & shrimp linguini), a small RV camping site (a dozen+ vehicles), numerous waterfront benches/tables/chairs and access to a flat, gravel walking path that leads a short distance into Sainte-Flavie.

Sainte-Flavie > Kamarouska

What a lovely place Ferme GJAMIKA is! 

Young Jamie was our tour guide; his grand-parents started the farm. 

They raise angus/holstein mixed cattle, breed and rodeo quarter horses; Jamie is a competitor and has his own horse. They also raise pigs, sheep, goats, turkeys, chickens, quail for meat/eggs and have a variety of smaller animals for folks that do farm tours; donkeys, alpacka, llama, miniature horses, pot-bellied pigs, rabbit, pheasants, peacock, ducks, doves, pigeons.

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Aug 26 - 28 ... 'Lotsa Geese'

Travel: Drummondville QUEBEC > Lock 21 Campsite, Macdonell Island CG, St. Lawrence Parks ONTARIO

Dry Camp: Site 4, large, private (but adjacent to a picnic area), good solar explosure, waterfront, a large batallion of Canada Geese wanders back and forth between here and this camps water access. 

Note: It should be mentioned to park staff that the sites in this area are difficult to determine; poor signage and missing posts and numbers. Even though it is private that doesn't seem to matter to some people. I stopped a few large groups from literally walking right thru our campsite. For this reason, we will probably not return and that's a shame.

The U.S. (right side on horizon) is approximately 800 metres across the St. Lawrence River from here.

Ruby throated hummingbird feeding at a trumpet creeper vine.

Still a complete ban on woodfires, even for cooking; but, we do carry a butane stove. 😁

Canada geese

Balsam Poplar: Helen hugging for scale, I estimate the height at 70 - 80 feet.

A Facebook Post

Yesterday, we were invaded by a batallion of Canada Geese returning from holiday in Mexico.

Dann spent 1/2 an hour raking up goose poop and erecting a wall around our encampment to deter them from infiltrating. Overnight, at least one goose penetrated our battlements.  

Dann is currently spray painting 'The Wall' ... B L A C K.

Tomorrow, we head for home.

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Aug 29

Travel: Macdonell Island CG, St. Lawrence Parks > HOME ONTARIO

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FUEL Economy Report

RIG

2011 FORD F350 Lariat 4x4 CC SB SRW & 2021 Northern Lite 8-11 EX LE DB

WEIGHT

Last scaled wet at 12200 lb. Not fully loaded this trip; estimated at 11800 lb.

ROUTE / ROAD / WEATHER CONDITIONS

Drove paved highways only in ON, QC. Some construction along the Trans Canada in QC, moderate grade changes and long hills in NB. Tow/haul engaged 99%. Along the Gaspe Peninsula grades can reach 13% (official measurements) with some reports of sections reaching 17% (not validated). Steep sections hit a maximum length of 2 kms. Highway 198 which crosses from Gaspe through to Murdochville and returns to highway 132 is very hilly with grades reaching 11%. Numerous sections of road construction along the Gaspe Peninsula. Brutal headwind and torrential rain heading sw from Quebec.

SOME FINAL STATISTICS

1.04 (lowest cost CDN$ / litre of gas), Tyendinega ON

1.57 (highest cost CDN$ / litre of gas), Murdochville, QC

11.8 mpg (Imperial)

23.9 (avg. l)/100 (km) 

26 days

42 celcius (highest recorded humidex temperature)

52h 40m (drive time)

395 kms (longest driving distance day)

860.4 (litres fuel burned)

3594.0 (kms. driven)

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Where To Next ? ... DOMINICA for SCUBA/Snorkeling trip 

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LOAF and The NAVIGATOR

   

We're LOAFin Around ... follow along if you'd like; content is ours, unless noted.

Click on Trip 166 for all photography for this trip.

Cameras:     1. iPhone 16 Pro Max

                        2. Nikon DSLR P1000

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