5 Mar 2026

C O Z U M E L #13

JOURNAL

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54 Days on COZUMEL Island

And, as the post's title suggests, this will be our 13th visit.

Mucho equipaje !
Dive bag (45 lbs), (2) personal bags ( 63 lbs), (2) carry-ons (45 lbs ) 

We fly out of Toronto ...

... and (3.5 to 4 hrs later) we'll land in San Miguel; a west coast approach.

This is the (mostly) undeveloped east coast shoreline of Cozumel. We'll be on the Island for 54 days this trip. Including an additional 3 travel days, this trip will be 8 weeks total.

Iberostar Waves toVillas El Encanto to Hotel Cozumel & Resort to Iberostar 

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IBEROSTAR WAVES

JAN10 - 23


Room 7511

... comes with a new sunhat and a cat.



A couple of relaxing days, good weather on arrival day, re-connected with a few folks we had met before and met some new ones. Very quiet at The Club early in our stay, a section of the decking is being replaced, additional loungers at the beach. Cristian will be leaving for Merida.


SCUBATONY

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A dramatic weather change; it's unusual to have frequent El Norte's in January. Some dives were cancelled, then re-chedulled - only to be cancelled / re-scheduled a 2nd time - the original schedule I registered was completely changed.

Of the 14 dives I had scheduled (for the 1st dive session with ST); I completed 10 ... not too bad. I have since re-scheduled 3 of those 4 lost dive days into the schedule for my 2nd dive session later this trip; 16 were planned and completed.

Concierge service with ST now means ... all gear off in water, mexican shower, boat coats, water/pop/hot tea, guacamole and/or pico de gallo, tortillo chips, mixed fuits/crunchy vegs, cookies or cakes, gear is left on boat; is set up and returned rinsed for next dive.

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Amigos

Cervando / Conejo (Rabbit)

                                                                             Israel           Dann

Moises


Dive #300
Fortunate to complete it with Miguel

Captain Hector (Mago) and DM Miguel

                                   Captain Alex     Kirk  Sheryl             Dann

Papo

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Dive Statistics

Dives     Session 1 - (10)🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿 

                Session 2 - (16)🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿

Reef Sites

S1: Palancar Bricks (77 feet/54 minutes), Columbia Shallows (29/60), Palancar Caves #1 (80/60), Cedral (62/64), Palancar Caves #2 (91/62), Dalila #1 (62/63), Santa Rosa Wall #1 (69/64), La Francesa #1 (58/64), Palancar Caves #3 (79/65), Casa Blanca (60/61)

S2: Caracolillo (73/62), Cedral Pass (52/65), Santa Rosa Shallows #1 (56/63), Dalila #3 (67/60), Palancar Bricks #1 (86/62), Santa Rosa Shallows #2 (52/66), Palancar Bricks #2 (75/62), Santa Rosa Shallows #3 (50/60), Palancar Bricks #3 & Gardens #2 (69/62), La Francesa #3 (67/62), Columbia Deep (76/64), Columbia Shallows (28/61), Santa Rosa Wall #3 (67/62), Santa Rosa Shallows #4 (54/63), Palancar Gardens #3 (64/64), Dalila (65/62)

Total Bottom Time 

S1: 54+60+60+64+62+63+64+64+65+61 = 10 hour 16 minutes

S2: 62+65+63+60+62+66+62+60+62+62+64+61+62+63+64+62 = 16 hours 40 minutes

Average Bottom Time 

S161.6 minutes

S2: 62.5 minutes

Dive Masters 

S1,2: Moises, Sabrina, CervandoMiguel, Mark, Diego

Captains 

S1,2Hector (Mago), Conejo, Papo, Alex 

Boats

Chiquilla Bonita, Atila, Shamu

Dive Buddies

S2: Kirk, Sheryl

Note: Dive #300


DIVE PARADISE

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The Operation

Dive Paradise is only running 5 boats now. Fast boats, Caskabel and Coquetta and big boats, Aries, Paradise Diver and Atlantis. Caskabel is rarely used and requires a pre-arranged group of 9 divers, I was unable to get on Coquetta even though I requested 'fast boats' on my original reservation, the 3 big boats; are just that - large, often 20+ divers, 2 DMs, sometimes training groups and very slow ... a trip to the southern tip can take as much as 1.5 hours+ (depending on conditions); it's not unusual to return to the pier at 3:00 pm. Additionally, Captain Smiley (one of the best) was unable to get his permit this year. All dives destinations are governed by a rigid weekly schedule, divers choice is no longer an option.

Unfortunately, I have come to the conclusion, I will not be booking dives with DP in the future; unless I can be guaranteed a seat on a fast boat; I will stay at Hotel Cozumel and Resort but will book dives with some of the small/fast boat operators ... SCUBA Luiz, SCUBA Martine, SCUBA Juan. Heard from SCUBA Luiz; they will pick-up and drop-off at the Dive Paradise pier.

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Amigos


PADI Deep Diver Certification
Completed with Omar

c
(Captain) Kirk

Jorge

Medical Emergency: This lady apparently panicked early in the dive at a depth of 90' (approx), ascended rapidly while holding her breath and did not make a safety stop. We never learned the cause of her panic.

Suspected ConditionA diver who ascends too quickly while holding their breath is at high risk for pulmonary overinflation syndrome (POIS), commonly known as a "burst lung" or pulmonary barotrauma. This occurs because the air in the lungs expands as ambient pressure decreases during ascent; if this air is not exhaled, it can rupture lung tissue and can lead lead to severe injury.  

Update: Spoke with this divers daughter who was on-board the dive boat, a few days later. Her mother had a cardiac event at bottom depth. She had no previous history of heart problems and was in good physical condition. She became anxious and ascended too rapidly and while holding her breath. When she surfaced, she vomitted, passed blood and passed-out. Care was administered immediately by the boat crew and she was transferred by ambulance to the International Hospital on Cozumel. After receiving medical attention and testing, the family made the decision to transfer her to Miami FL for further observation.


Paramedics met us at a nearby pier and were prepared with an ambulance that would transport the diver to the Cozumel International Hospital, where a hyperbaric chamber is available.

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Dive Statistics

Dives 

(12)🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿🀿

Reef Sites 

La Francesa #2 (71 feet/47 minutes), Yucab #1 (52/54), Punta Tunich (75/50), Paradise Reef (45/65), Santa Rosa Wall #2 (98/43), San Clemente Wall (69/60), Palancar Caves #2 (125/36), Dalila #2 (76/60), Columbia Deep (78/55), Yucab #2 /Tormentos #1 (52/52), Palancar Gardens #1 (75/55), Tormentos #2 (56/61)

Total Bottom Time 

47+54+50+65+43+60+36+60+55+52+55+61 = 10 hour 48 minutes

Average Bottom Time 54 minutes

Dive Masters Jorge, Sam 

Dive Buddy - Kirk

Captains - Memo

Boats Paradise Diver, Aries

Instructor Omar 

Certification PADI Deep Diver Certification


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Underwater Photography

First Encounters * : Shovelnose Guitarfish, Furry Sea Cucumber

Camera: GOPRO Hero 11 Black w. TELESIN underwater housing.

All photos shared on Facebook and presented in this blog, were edited using Dive + editing tools and watermarked 'Dive+ @ KANOE'. (Note: 'KANOE' is an anagram for 'OKANE')

Photography is in chronological order, taken from all dives completed and from both dive operators; SCUBATony and Dive Paradise

I'm limiting the underwater photography, to primarily, my best captures or first encounters for this journal. As usual, a link to our complete photo gallery for the trip will be available at the end of this blog, for anyone interested in viewing.

Much of the SCUBA diving here, takes place in Arrecifes de Cozumel National Park. There are strict rules for diving ... don't touch or harass the wildlife (including corals), the use of gloves, probing sticks, diving knives are prohibited.

As always ... click on any of the blue links for additional information.


* The Shovelnose Guitarfish is considered to be a primitively developed ray, with many features of both sharks and rays. It was initially, thought to be a shark because of its dorsal fins' shape.


Critically endangered; it should be obvious why this sea turtle is called a Hawksbill.


A pretty coral display
  



Starfish ... I was able to drop myself down low enough to watch the starfish scurry along the sandy bottom; hundreds of tiny feet (centipede-like) protrude from the outside edges of each leg and give the animal a 'hovercraft' appearance as it moves. Very cool!


Lobster ... I don't think there was any rivalry intended with the chase; I do believe amorous πŸ’žmay have been involved. A drift dive, so I wasn't able to stay long enough to verify either. 




Barracuda ... a great barracuda, 4-5 feet estimate. They can be intimidating when you get close with a camera!


See: centre left on branch, 0.75 to 1.5 inches

Stock photo


Interesting soft tube sponge shapes ...


Octopus ... If you look very closely, near the upper centre of the photo, you will see (under the ledges shadow) a black squinting eye, with wrinkles below it. Most of the objects near the entrance to the octopus's lair are discarded shells and other pieces from its prey.


Sea Cucumber ... considered a delicacy in some countries.


Blue-striped Grunt inside a Giant Barrel Sponge. The reef ecosystem provides habitat for various species, with sponges often serving as homes for small fish and invertebrates. 






Arrow Crab resting in a Vase SpongeTube and vase sponges provide habitat and shelter for various small marine creatures, including crabs and shrimp. 


The center of this photo benefits from a nearby divers flashlight. 

Look closely and you will see the outline of the fiddler crabs shell. Also visble are a blue-stripped grunt (lower left) and a black-spotted boxfish (lower center)

Fiddler Crab (male). Male fiddler crabs are known for having one major claw that is significantly larger than the other minor claw (see photo below). The enlarged claw is primarily used to attract females and to defend territory against other males. 



Black Triggerfish, also known as a Black Durgon




Queen Conch ... travelling.

Stock photo
Queen Conch ... exposed. 




Spotted Eagle Ray with a Remora following closely underneath.




A Yellow Tube Sponge with a Yellowline Arrow Crab nestled inside. The primary predator of the yellow tube sponge is the Hawksbill Turtle.




Smooth Flower Coral, a type of stony coral. 






The coral reef is healthy, vibrant and colourful.



This ray was literally motionless into an opposing current; feathering it's wings ever so conservatively to maintain a static position. Meanwhile, divers fought that same head-on current to get somewhat close enough for a few photos - I was within 5 feet for this shot. Just a brief encounter for all divers ... then we all, allowed the current to catch and turn us 180 degrees and with no effort; it launch us into a mild drift dive.



They are curious animals. This shark, cruised in slowly diminishing circles around us and then approached several of us head-on before veering off at the last minute.



Passed by this lair the other day. Then, there were two octopus sharing space inside and we only got to briefly see the eye of one. There was no shell-fish debris outside. This day, one octopus was outside, resting on a small rock, enjoying the contents of two conch shells it hunted, gathered and will soon enjoy for breakfast.


Sting Ray

This ray was in the process of burying himself in the sand. When complete, often all that will be seen are a couple of eyes protruding just above the ocean bottom ... the last thing prey will see.


Long-spined Porcupinefish, also commonly known as a Balloonfish

These fish can rapidly inflate their bodies with water to become large, spiky balls, making them difficult for predators to swallow. They are generally olive-brown with dark spots and feature a distinct dark bar above and below their large, globular eyes. Like other pufferfish, they contain toxins, and they are not considered safe to eat. 


Hawksbill Turtle


Marine Sponge

These organisms are sessile animals that filter seawater for food particles. The light blue, encrusting mass is characteristic of many tropical sponge species. The darker, tube-like structures surrounding it are also likely sponges or coral formations.

Regardless, certainly an interesting formation!


Blacksmith Damselfish (aka. Chromis)


Remora or Suckerfish on the Nurse Shark's back.




*  Furry Sea Cucumber (or Fissured Sea Cucumber) ... a First Encounter



... has a dorsal (back) surface that ranges in color from black, dark gray, or deep blue to a greenish or brownish tone. This dark, dorsal surface is covered in numerous small white, bluish-white, greenish spots or in this case brownish-orange.


Yellowline Arrow Crab ... there are a few in this photo.

Also ... the brownish, fibrous growths on the rocks are a type of marine algae, possibly similar to sargassum.  Small, slender fish are visible, which could be juvenile blennies or gobiesThe scene also contain small invertebrates like sea snails or echinoderms


Giant Hermit Crab ... scavenging


Growing upon and around the Red Encrusting Sponge are smaller Blue and Yellow Sponges


Spotted Moray Eel hiding in a Branching Coral



For the sharp observers of my 'turtle' (brownish-greenish-yellowish) photos... 

Hawksbill turtles have the ability to slightly change the color of their shells based on their surroundings and environmental conditions. This adaptation allows them to blend in with coral reefs, aiding in camouflage from predators. The keratin in their shells reacts to different wavelengths of light, causing them to appear slightly different in varying conditions.


A living Sand Dollar, a flattened sea urchin.


The diver below is in a swim-thru, a classic bathymetric feature of the reefs here.


Teeth to teeth ... with the Great Barracuda




The often, elusive underwater photographer. 

This diver was a joy to watch ... respect for wildlife, fabulous buoyancy control and air consumption, proper lighting, respect for other nearby photographers and divers; all the while wielding a 25lb camera rig.


A Mediterranean Red Sea Star, a type of starfish. 


 
Saw this beauty submerging from about 50 feet above. I moved into his line of descent and stayed stable and motionless. As he approached, curiosity got the best of him and he aimed directly for me and like other marine encounters I have had (sharks, eagle rays); only veered off at the last moment. Loggerheads are the second largest of all sea turtles; next only to the Leatherhead sea turtle.

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VILLAS EL ENCANTO

JAN24 - FEB04


Villa Orquidea (Orchid) Room 7

Based on the photos that are currently featured on their website, Villas El Encanto has aged; this review reflects the changes we experienced.

The grounds are kept fairly neat and tidy, but many outdoor furnishings need upgrading, all buildings and structures could use a coat of paint, some of the palapa roofs need repair. We are staying in a villa, not one of the hotel rooms or suites. Ours is poorly appointed; very tiny fridge, toaster oven only, limited dishes and utensils, plumbing is old and flakey, a tiny bathroom sink.

We are located a very short walk from a location that we often stay at; Hotel Cozumel & Resort. The only advantage here, that we have realized, compared to Hotel Coz, is very good privacy; there is no financial benefit.

The PACK
A special shout-out to the pack of 5-6 (at last count) ex-street dogs that now 'seem' to live at this gated-walled compound; they are too friendly and well-cared for. They spend much of the day (sometimes early morning/evening) patrolling and keeping potential intruders out; constant running and jumping is accompanied by high-pitched, yapping and barking; none of which is used sparingly. One of the flea-infested leaders was recently caught sleeping on one of our front porch chair cushions (Dann's). 

She has been shunned - we are now behind bars.


We knew we would need to provide our own meals here, whether we ate at restaurants or prepared something at our villa. We shop daily at a nearby grocery store and supply all of our breakfasts and light dinner snacks that way; lunch is usually at a San Miguel restaurant.

Although the staff were friendly, not all are helpful; this location does not work for us.

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Flora

Bauhinia monandra, commonly known as the Pink Orchid Tree, Napoleon's plume, or pink butterfly tree. (Source: Google image)

Turnera ulmifolia, commonly known as yellow alder or ramgoat dashalong. (Source: Google image)


Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). (Source: Google image)

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Street Scenes


                                            Patina


Must be more than a dozen of these beautiful painted statues all along the waterfront.


Nothing wasted at the mercado - chicken feet into the pot


Traditional methods



Cozumel, traditionally a quiet fishing town, has deep roots as a premier fishing destination, with its culture, economy, and identity built around the abundant marine life in its surrounding reefs and deep-sea waters. Before becoming a famous diving spot in the 1960s, the island relied on fishing for its livelihood. 


                                                    Distilleria Cozumel ... excellant lionfish tacos. 
Lionfish is widely considered a delicacy, offering a mild, delicate, and slightly sweet flavor often compared to hogfish, snapper, or a mix of lobster and shrimp. It has a clean, white, and flaky texture that is tender and buttery, making it versatile for ceviche, frying, grilling, or baking. 
 

A Mexican estate just across the street from our casita at Villas El Encanto


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HOTEL COZUMEL & RESORT


FEB05 - 18


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MARDI GRAS










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Return To ...  IBEROSTAR WAVES


FEB19 - MAR04



The Club roof and the Presidential Suite (next door) are getting new palapas.




                                                                                                               Canna Lily


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Where To Next ? ... 

All the way ... west to Haida Gwaii BC, possibly a trip to Bella-Coola and visits with relatives and friends on Vancouver Island.

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Refer to Trip172 for all photography for this trip 

CAMERAS

#1 -  GOPRO Hero 11 w. TELESIN underwater housing & BACKSCATTER filters

#2 -  iPhone 11

Unless credited, all photo content is by LOAFin Around. 

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