Featuring: Cape Breton Highlands National Park & Meat Cove

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We were first on Cape Breton Island in 1996 (23 years ago) with Helen's parents. At that time, we were only here long enough for a quick drive around the Cabot Trail; we were on our way to Newfoundland. This was yet another beautiful region of Canada that they introduced us to ... thanks again, Mae and Earl.

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CAPE  BRETON  HIGHLANDS  NATIONAL  PARK

" One of Canada's most enchanting places, where the mountains meet the sea. As you hug the world-famous Cabot Trail coastline, you'll wind through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, where lush, forested river canyons carve into the ancient plateau, edged by rust-coloured cliffs. The cool maritime climate and rugged landscape of the park permit a unique blend of Acadian, Boreal and Taiga habitats, plants and animals. This special mix of northern and southern species is not found anywhere else in Canada. Within the park, several dozen species of rare or threatened plants and animals can be found, as well as old growth forests of international importance. Small populations of arctic-alpine plants left over from the last ice age can also be found here. " For more information, go here ...  (Source: Tourism Nova Scotia)

As always, blue links in the post, are clickable.

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... expect   steep   UPs

We spent a few days at the Broad Cove Campground in the national park and hiked several of the trails there. Many of these walks feature steep climbs to rewarding viewpoints, trails can be rough and cobbly, there are some stair sections; use hiking sticks on the 'downs' in particular. Expect steep 'ups' if your plans include hiking just about anywhere on the island.

Not camping? ... high end accommodations in the park are available at Keltic Lodge; fine dining, luxury rooms, golfing, tennis.

@ Keltic Lodge ... didn't stay, just parked for the views.

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The TRAILS

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15 JACK PINE

2.3 km, 0-50 m gradient
Easy loop that connects to a coastal trail. Several very nice viewpoints. Trail leaves and returns at a parking lot. Stay left and you will not wander onto the Coastal Trail; it terminates after 11.3 kms in Neil's Harbour. 

Notes 

This scenic trail overlooks the Atlantic coastline and winds through a post-fire jack pine stand. This pocket of jack pine is significant because it is separated from the rest of its range by 200 km. Interpretive panels tell the story of this area, beginning with a fire in 1921, a budworm infestation and the hardy vegetation that survives today in this harsh coastal environment.

 

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18 GREEN COVE
0.2 km, 10 m gradient 

Easy, headland walk

Notes 

Although this trail is very short, it is quite fascinating. Notice the twisted stunted trees – known as “krummholz” – and the leathery leaves of the bayberry. Plants here have adapted to this windy, salt-sprayed coastal environment.

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17 JIGGINGS COVE LAKE

2.3 km, 0-65 m gradient

Easy, varied wildlife, trail around a small lake, one short moderately steep section.

Notes 
The Jigging Cove trail leads you around a man-made lake and down to Jigging Cove itself, connecting to the Coastal Littoral trail in the process. The lake loop contains many bridges and walkways over the wet sections. The path that leads down to the ocean is much more rugged. The closer you get to the coastal trail the more rooty and rocky it becomes. It is a great second / end of day hike and a lot of folks will just walk around the lake loop to add a little more distance to their day.

Jiggings Cove Lake (east end)

Young Canada Grouse (Spruce Grouse)

Female Canada Grouse with 4 chicks.

Jiggings Cove Lake (west end)

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19 BROAD COVE MOUNTAIN

2.15 kms, 35-180 m gradient

Difficult, steep climb to a panoramic ocean view, rocky sections.

Notes 
This short hike offers incredible views of Warren Lake, Middle Head and the areas surrounding Broad Cove.

Warren Lake (center right)

Hairy Woodpecker

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25 FRESHWATER LAKE LOOKOFF

0.3 km, 10-45 m gradient

Moderate, short but steep climb up steps to a panoramic ocean view. 

Notes 
This short hike offers nice views of the Fresh Water Lake, the ocean behind and Smokey Mountain in the distance.

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Moving on ... The Cabot Trail exits Cape Breton Highlands NP at Effies Brook. From there, heading north-westerly, the highway junctions at Cape North and then follows a secondary road that travels approximately 30 kms to Meat Cove. 

Caution: This road will/can be rough, regardless of whether you are driving the paved or gravel sections.

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MEAT COVE

Meat Cove is a beautiful fishing village located on the northern tip of Cape Breton Island ... you just can't drive any further!  It’s unusual name is believed to have originated from the area being used as a popular location for hunters to dress animal carcass’ during it’s early history. 

The small population here, is descended from Scottish settlers and most are employed in the fishing and tourism industries. Surrounded by the Cape Breton Highlands on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other.

We came for the view and hiked one trail the day we arrived. We had planned on another hiking day; there are about a dozen nearby trails. 

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LITTLE GRASSY

1.3 km

Short but steep, levels out near trails end, spectacular views of Meat Cove.

Entrance

Looking east, false summit

Summit, looking northwest

Summit, looking east

Trail down, exit left of fireweed

Tropical cyclone weather conditions moved in overnight; really BIG winds, heavy driving sheets of rain penetrated a window gasket, camper jacks extended stabilized us somewhat. 

We always find the best places at ... the 'End of the Road.'

The evening BEFORE the storm ... just might be LOAF's best view ever ... from a campground!

The morning AFTER the storm ... there are a few kms of dirt road at the end of the drive in. Expect washouts, washboard, very soft (or no) shoulders, narrow roadway.

Dirt gives way to pavement 'here and there' ... expect uneven pavement, edges crumbled, heavily heaved sections, LARGE 'tire damaging' holes

Looking north near Pleasant Bay ... much of the western coastline was experiencing heavy weather. 

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We decided to drive on ... 

Leaving Meat Cove and heading south west on the Cabot Trail now, we re-entered the national park near Big Intervale. This weather system continued through most of the day and didn't taper off until late evening. We'll stay at Cheticamp Campground; just north of Cheticamp. 

... and walk a few more trails.

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4 LE BUTTEREAU

1.5 km, 0-55 m gradient

Easy, short climb to an ocean view. Cheticamp in the distance.

Notes 
The park's hiking map does not depict the same trail detail as the information board at the trailhead parking lot. The trail dead-ends at the lookout. The loop that heads south at the junction is actually the Le Chemin de Buttereau.

 

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7 SKYLINE

6.5 km, 290-405 m gradient

Moderate, very little grade change for most of the trail. An extensive boardwalk and a number of viewing platforms are located overlooking the rugged Gulf Coast. Most of the trail has been top coated with pea stone; only a short section (less than a km) is not.

Notes 
A very nice walk. Be aware that this is the park's most popular trail. Get here very early; there is room in the parking lot for more than 100 cars and a separate lot would hold another 5o RV's. When we left there were only a couple of spaces available. On the trail, we met hikers every 50 ft on our way out.

We walked counter-clockwise.

Stunted trees, windswept areas dominate most of the trail.

Wild asters.

Several lookouts feature views like this.

A short section not top dressed with pea-stone near the middle.

There are a couple of additional viewing platforms below this one.

Cabot Trail road construction across ...

Our view back to the trail's viewing platforms on our descent through the road construction.

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2 SALMON POOLS

8.0 km, 15-110 m gradient

Easy. Some minor grade change at the start and a couple of other sections. For the most part the trail is wide, flat and well-maintained. Sections are often closed due to washout. In our case it was closed just after the second salmon pool near km 4.0, which is about where we turned around. The trail follows close to Robert Brook.

Notes 
The trail is mostly cool and shaded, through a mixed hardwood bush of poplar, birch, elm, ironwood, beech, maple; very few conifers. This is a favorite, local fly fishing stream for Atlantic salmon.

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TEAM: LOAF, Crumby,Wry and Crusty ... 

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